Seoul Findings - Jan. to March 2012 : Inspiring Korea vs. Incredible India

Is tourism a worthwhile adventure? 

Back from a business trip to India, I have mixed feelings about the impact of development on tourism. That's a fact, things have been getting easier for travelers around the world. Quality, hospitality, accessibility, reliability, punctuality, integrity, connectivity, efficiency, sustainability, interactivity and even authenticity … are more and more accepted as universal values by the tourism industry. On the other hand, tourists are getting increasingly demanding and are easily getting upset about tiny things they would not have noticed a few decades or even years ago. 

Ten years ago, travelling to India has been quite challenging for me. I have not experienced the Indian Syndrome, this legendary cultural shock that drives so many visitors crazy but I must say I was a little close to exasperation and nausea after a couple of months spent in Calcutta and Bhubaneswar, Orissa. 

India, 10 years ago ... 

I cannot not really explain why … May be it was the constant fear of being sick (though nothing happened, in spite of overindulging in local food, working in slums and not-so-sanitary landfills and following the routes of waste collection trucks on a daily basis), the regular encounters with depravation, the permanent feeling of being an outcast or a walking piggy bank, the enigmatic stares, that fascinated me as much as they disturbed me. I have never felt in real danger in India yet I had a constant sensation of being uncomfortable and inconvenient. All my senses seemed amplified, except my sense of familiarity and security. Street noises, foul and food smells, colorful saris, spice markets, rickshaws, billboards and temples; wetness, stickiness and dustiness of the atmosphere, profusion of fat, sugar and flavors maddening and addicting your taste buds … cows everywhere in the streets, acting as princesses in a country where Mac Donald’s where beef burgers are banned. 

During this first mission in India, communication fences have been a little hard to jump over. Apart from the hotel staff and a couple of local counterparts, I have barely had the opportunity to interact with other Indians and when I did, speaking English did not seem the right option though it was the only one for me. Body language did not help a lot since all my questions were answered by the same head wobbling, meaning either ‘yes’, ‘no’, ‘may be’, ‘I see’ or ‘I am confused’. The adventure was however worthwhile to live just because it was an adventure. Physical and cultural distances were difficult to cover but every time I reached a goal or just got what I had expected, I considered it as a small victory over adversity. At that time, I had no cell phone, no Internet and not even a laptop. The only camera I had was disposable and just offered me limited options to capture unforgettable moments. I remember having spent so many boring hours waiting for my flight back to Paris at the airport. Nothing to do at all but eating greasy dry samosas. New Delhi airport was as welcoming and modern as a prison. Still, my memories are as vivid and colorful as the little adventure I lived. 

I don’t have any awful memory of that trip but I clearly remember how my paranoid travel mate (a colleague by the way) abundantly shared his anxiety with me and drove me more suspicious than I should have been. I mean, what is the point of restricting your diet to coke (I mean Coca Cola) and toasts when you are in India?  And come on, should I really rinse my toothbrush with mineral water? Sure, drinking water is still an issue and Westerners cannot trust their guts when it comes to swallow water from any usually suspect ed source. As for tourist attractions, I could visit some palaces and temples, see elephants, monkeys and cows, and I also witnessed a riverside funeral ceremony involving the cremation of several bodies. The culminating part of that trip was a dinner at some Indian friends’ who invited me to celebrate the end of Ramadan with them. The thing is … I was not prepared to eat alone while they were admiring my ability to grab a delicious yet slippery Biryani rice without using any cutlery but the wrong hand … I also should mention that it had been more dangerous to eat in my room than outside since the employee in charge of room service found it was a good idea to sit on my bed, telling me he wanted to know more about me. I found it very funny at that time. 

Ten years later, I came back to India with the kind of apprehension only ageing people have. I even contracted a travel insurance for the first time in my life. In the end, I just realized I should have chosen an insurance against silliness, mine of course.

However, my experience of India has been less brutal but not less enjoyable this time. My destination was Gujarat and the purpose of my mission was to establish libraries in local public schools. With major businesses and double digit growth rates, Gujarat is one of the most prosperous states in India and the place to go if you want to invest in textiles, engineering, chemicals, petrochemicals, drugs and pharmaceuticals, etc. Not my case. However, many Gujaratis are still living below the poverty line. Moreover, all the schools I have visited had a computer lab but they usually had no library and/or no books.

Symbols of Gujarat hospitality

I was based in Dahej, a big industrial area offering limited opportunities for tourism if you are not a big fan of industrial tourism. Anyway, Vadodara and its charming palaces was not that far: 2 hours drive on a very  decent road. Mosquitoes and cows were still there but I have decided we could live peacefully together, at least for the cows. 

Survival kit ... 

This time, I had a local cell phone, a Korean cell phone, a laptop, a Wifi connection. This created new constraints such as: bringing 3 chargers (for the Indian cell phone, the Korean cell phone and the digital camera) and one heavy cable, writing daily reports, finding a power socket to put my mosquito repellent plug, choosing between noisy fan and chilly air con, trying to explain that when I do not want my towel to be washed I throw it on the floor, trying to understand why there are 10 power switches in my room , etc. A good thing is that I have seriously improved my English as Foreign language skills which allows me to master its different interpretations and accentuations around the world, particularly in countries where you may get a beer when you ask for the bill. Working with Indian counterparts has also been spiritually and professionally rewarding and though some of them were merciless businessmen, I have learnt a lot from them about India as a promising BRIC country. 

Ups, I did it again ... 

This time, my travel companion was more an alter ago or a soul mate than just a simple colleague. We both had the same interest for cross cultural exchanges and discoveries, food exploration and picture taking, endless questions to the waiters and silly jokes about (exploding or laughing) sacred cows. Since he is Korean and I am French, English is obviously not our native language and not our cup of chai tea either. For example, he told me one day that contrarily to all his friends who had been to India, he had no diary. I commented that I also wanted to start a diary because it helped me release my stress but I found it quite constraining and I had no time for it. After 15 mn of blablabla about my future projects of diary, my colleague kindly specified to me that he was actually talking about diarrhea.

I really would like to thank him for having made this epic trip a great memory. 

Market in Dahej 

Dahej ... its trucks and its dust

Dahej too.

Despite of its tremendous growth, India has kept some kind of authenticity and charm, at least in the countryside. Women are still wearing beautiful saris, streets are still fragranced with spices and other smells that are more  rickshaws are more present than ever and cows, well, are still sacred and temples are still being built. In short, India is still incredible. 

The Lukshmi Vilas Palace, Vadodara (former Baroda), Gujarat

At Mandap, Express hotel, best Gujarati restaurant in Vadodara

Punjabi restaurant in Dediapada, Narmada district

My farewell gift ... 

Tourism is a matter of perceptions, circumstances and illusions. Our best adventures are created by our minds ... mine was well disposed.

The palace of the nuts, Bharuch

The glorious food of the (in)famous Shalimar hotel in Bharuch

Mango Lassi with Dosa pancake

Spiritual enlightenment with my travel guide Swami Vivekananda

Freshly pressed sugar cane juice,  just before flying back to Korea  ... adventure ! 

What about Seoul findings from January to March 2012? 

From January to March, I spent a lot of time at work, abroad, on the road, in the plane and in the immigration offices.  As a result, I have not a lot of Seoul findings to report.

What can I say? Seoul is becoming a very practical and welcoming city. Too many coffee shops and shopping opportunities for me but I will survive. 

Traditional wedding lunch menu, Feb. 2012

While many Indians are vegetarians, Koreans love their meat and especially beef. The Korean one of course, called Hanu. They also like pork, often coming from France. Both countries like hot, spicy, colorful food. Hence high risks of stomach ache and heavy consumption of antiacid medication.

I have recently discovered the nearly miraculous and versatile properties of baking soda as a very efficient remedy against acidosis, and so many other disorders. I have been taking very small amount of baking soda every day for a few weeks and I can tell you that my body likes it. Taste is quite too salty for me but I can bear it. Baking soda is really cheap and can be found in all grocery shops. 

Tabom, one of the many Brazilian restaurants of Itaewon, carnivorgy places.  

Asiana Airlines decided to rename its Economy Class, now called Travel class. Does it mean that travelling in first or business class is not travelling? 

The bus and subways fare have recently increased in Seoul yet they remain quite affordable. I still think that bus drivers should be aware than they are not driving a racecar but a public transport vehicle full of pregnant women, frail ajumas (oxymoron) and people like me who do not appreciate to be treated as flipper balls. 

Now foreigners are aware that they may be fined if they do not pay the fare

I have just discovered that Chai Tea Latte was becoming very trendy in Korea. I would not have noticed if I had not become addicted to this delicious beverage in India. Here in Seoul, this will cost you a fortune, as any trendy stuff. Shame ...

Some S(e)oul inspiration 

• Free will is not a luxury but a right to exercise.
• People do not really give a job, they trade it. 
• Corruption is an insult.  
• Having no limits is a great source of anxiety, hence the exhilarating then depressing effect of power. 
• Creative people are visionaries. 
• K-Pop is the Korean, modern version of  'bread and circuses'
• Saying ‘No’ is a safe answer on the long run. 
• In a competing world, your best allies are those who are cruelly pointing out your flaws and weaknesses.