France Findings - January 2014

Fixing the bashing machine : why I believe there is hope for France

To J.C. (a.k.a Papie Chat)

The McDo's green logo (Rouen city, France) - subversive yet sustainable

Astérix advertisement for the French McDonalds' (2010): a big scandal in France, the 2nd market for McDo

Back from a long journey throughout France that led me to Paris, Rouen (Normandy), Lons-le Saunier (Jura) and Carrières-sur-Seine (western Paris suburb), I have been trying unsuccessfully to return to my Korean routine. It has been almost two weeks since I reinstated my Seoul neighborhoods but I can't help thinking that I may not be in the right place at the right time. First, it seems I am still stuck in the French time zone in spite of my (mild) efforts to get back into business as usual. I must specify that my new status of independent worker has not helped me to adjust to the local sleeping schedule and so far, I have only managed to be in phase with my upstairs neighbors' baby. Secondly, not content with having lost my sleep and my bearings, it is possible that I have also lost my mind, as for the first time in my expatriate life, I am experiencing feelings of homesickness (meaning that I no longer feel home in Korea and that I miss France). More disturbing is the fact that my longing for my homeland comes at a time when it seems highly fashionable to ride the wave of French bashing. 

While I completely understand that my country is in deep crisis (in deep shit, Mr. Clarke?), I also believe French bashing is an opportunity for us to stand up and stop whining to eventually start winning. It is actually encouraging to read /hear that we French are so disappointing since it can be easily interpreted as 'you can do better (as long as you give up the idea that you are misunderstood geniuses). In recent years, I have been often blamed by South Koreans for being 'so French', which usually implied I was either stubborn, individualistic, arrogant or even a 'French bitch' ... but the same people (and also many others, right?) also praised me for being creative, hard-working, sophisticated, smart or even crazy (I decided to take it as a compliment). I admit I have often been challenged by the local management style but in the end, I survived, and I probably improved myself (that which does not kill us makes us stronger). Although I complained a lot about intolerable situations such as the impossibility to exercise my right to (paid) vacations or my freedom to express my states of mind, I realized how privileged I was to have a job, three meals a day, hot water, etc.

In brief, I became optimistic, as hard as it may be for a French, and I just found out that people living in South Korea, expats included, were not happier than in France, but at least, they thought they were the best. 

In my humble opinion, French expatriates might be best positioned to defend the interests of their nation, being far enough from France to put things into perspective, and being French enough to feel sympathy and even empathy for the malaise of their compatriots. This year though, I was not particularly excited at the prospect of spending well-deserved vacations (a Korean oxymoron) on the basis of what I had recently heard or read about France (although I must concede that my mother and the media - Anglo-Saxons or French, are not the most objective information sources). Having just finished the final chapter of 'The Devil Ajumma wears Crocodile Ladies', a Korean version of Stupeur et Tremblements, I was more eager to celebrate my new freedom in wonderland rather than going from Charybdis to Scylla (or from bad to worse, if you prefer).

On the other hand, France appeared as an ideal destination to prevent any guilt trip as it would allow me to combine the useful with the pleasant. With the main purpose of visiting family and friends, I was determined to stay active in the tourism business by collecting first-hand information on France that could be used either in the process of building the France brand strategy, or in the framework of the Assises Nationales du Tourisme (or the National Conference on Tourism). For this, I would try to act as a responsible tourist who tries not to get influenced by clichés and preconceived ideas, and I then I would take the opportunity to read books and articles written by foreigners about France (see list below). 

After weeks of intense research, I came to the conclusion that nothing was completely rotten in the state of France. In fact, most people criticizing France (or more exactly, bashing French people, since the same criticizers have highly contributed to make France the world’s leading tourist destination) are just demonstrating an obvious lack of manners, education, maturity, originality and/or elegance. Moreover, I realized that most of my compatriots (I mean, the normal ones, which obviously excludes politicians and journalists) did not seem to care about the opinion of the international community, and particularly native English speakers. Some may call it arrogance or even je-m'en-foutisme ("laissez-faire, I don't care" attitude), I would rather refer to some typical French sayings : 'les chiens aboient, la caravane passe' (dogs are barking, the caravan goes on) - this one being from Turkey, or 'ne rien faire et laisser dire' (do nothing and let people talk) or 'laisser pisser le Mérinos' (let the merino pee), all of them meaning that you have to do what you have to do, regardless of negative comments.

So far, I had an epiphany (after I ate the king cake and got the trinket twice): who would not want to bet on the future of a country where freedom is a core value (and I can tell you how foreigners envy us for this capacity to say and do what we want)? A country where the McDonald's logo is green? A country where everything and its contrary may happen ... or not? In spite of the overwhelming wave of globalization fueled by the unflagging progress of social networks and new information and communication technologies, France still stands as an exception if not a paradox, breaking rules as easily as records. Just as an example, let's mention the French labor productivity, which remains one of the highest among OECD countries, in spite of an extravagant number of vacation days and strikes ... To know more about this, read the article ‘Le French-bashing’ misses the mark. 

In conclusion, I would say that there is a real French way of doing things. Just look at how French people prepare, produce and consume their meals. Everything is so carefully designed, engineered and staged from the market to the plate. It's no wonder that the gastronomic meal of the French has been listed as Intangible Cultural Heritage by the UNESCO. We are what and (how) we eat ...

Below are some of the contemporary books I have recently read (in English), written by expats who lived or survived in France. I did not find all of them hilarious (truth hurts) but it is always good to see yourself through the not-so-objective eyes of foreigners. In my case, it may be a good source of inspiration for the soon-to-be-published "8 years in the Kimchi".

A Year in Merde, Merde Actually and many others merde-related productions by Stephen Clarke

Almost French: A New Life in Paris by Sarah Turnbull

My Life in France by Julia Child

French Impressions by John S. Littell

A Year in Provence by Peter Mayle

Check that list for a more complete choice.

And now some pictures of my recent trip to France: 

The New Year's eve victim: a chapon (castrated rooster)

My first french meal (Paul bakery, Paris CDG Airport)

Local products sold at the Rouen Tourism office: taste and diversity

Selling salami delicacies in Rouen

"Save a turkey!", a very funny advertisement to encourage the consumption of salmon

French market in Paris

Bakery in Paris

No need to mention Eiffel tower, Paris

Vs. Namsan Tower in Seoul

Korean restaurant in Paris

Paris subway, clean and empty: there is hope I told you

Wine tourism in Jura region, something you will never find in Korea

Parc des Bains in Lons-le-Saunier: a Korean garden designed by Korean artists Jihae Hwang and inaugurated in 2013
Check more here

Seoul findings - December 2013

So, this is it?

After 8 years of living in South Korea, I think it is time for me to leave Seoul. Some of my Korean friends asked me why I did not want to stay while I have always claimed my affection for my adopted country, but many others also asked me why I had stayed so long. I am not even sure I want to relocate. I just don't feel I should stay. Don't get me wrong, I still like Seoul very much but living here doesn't make me happy any more. I believe things have become too comfortable, and as the wise man says 'Real life begins outside your comfort zone.'

When I arrived in Seoul in October 2005, I had just left my beautiful old Paris and I was not ready to enter a relationship with one of those soulless megalopolises. On the other hand, I was quite excited to leave my Parisian train-train (routine) and its 'métro-boulot-dodo' (subway-office-bedroom), to start a new adventure in Far-East. I remember my first South Korean day: it was grey, chilly and not really engaging. Almost like a Parisian (day). But since I did not expect anything particular from Korea, I had no reason to be disappointed. I just wanted to adjust as soon as possible so that I can move ahead and make myself at home.

An expat is a tourist who has taken root

Whenever you visit a foreign country for the first time, you are obviously a tourist. As such, your needs, expectations, attitudes and behavior are not the same as for an expat. Your mind and body are still impregnated with the country you have left, and it is very likely you will experience a more or less intense shock, depending on many internal and external factors I will not detail here. 

When your stay drags on, your priorities and perception are changing. As I like to mention, tourists mainly focus on disparities whereas expats mainly focus on similarities. When they visit a foreign country for the first time, tourists often arrive with their luggage full of dreams and expectations. Once exposed to reality, they usually try to measure the gap between what they anticipated and what they actually experience. However, their purpose is not necessarily to minimize this gap, but to have a good reason to praise or to complain. As a matter of survival, expats prefer to highlight what looks familiar. For example, kimchi looks like sauerkraut, tofu looks like mozarella, Paris Baguette looks like ... a joke (no offense), etc. Tourists often want to experiment exoticism and local products while expats will find solace in what reminds them home.

For example, when I arrived in South Korea as a tourist, I was obviously impressed by how Incheon International Airport looked neat and tidy, compared with quirky Paris CDG. After a 12-hour red-eye flight to an unknown destination, things like this matter. After 8 years of expatriation, you start to find it normal and you even complain when the line is too long.

On my way to the hotel, I did not notice anything particular, except that I had entered the Korean Matrix. There were so many strange signs on the walls, on the shopfronts, on the road signs ... All the aggressive power of advertising was removed since I could not get any message. Same for the car radio, the only thing I could hear was tatata-da, -nida, -nika ... quite a soothing lullaby.

After a couple weeks mainly dedicated to find a home and a purpose, I immersed myself in the discovery of Seoul as if it was a huge amusement park. I eventually found it surprising, energizing and even appealing. My new home town was not pretty but it was not ugly either. It was not only clean (in spite of not having bins), safe and practical, but also entertaining with all its colorful characters and attractions and its mix of tradition and modernity, concrete buildings and green areas. While I thought I would quickly get bored, I found myself challenged and eager to explore any occasion to deepen my liaison with Seoul and its inhabitants. While I could not use my mouth to speak Korean, I compensated by swallowing any kind of local delicacies, indulging myself in the barbarian samgye-tang (whole baby chicken soup) or dogani-tang (beef knuckle soup), so much that I inherited the flattering nickname of 'Dogani monster'. Though I have been forced to eat living octopus, I am glad I have miraculously escaped bosin-tang (dog soup).

Dogani-tang 

Samgye-tang 

Still, I have been so busy being busy that I forgot to learn Korean.

At the risk of shocking those who think that expatriation is a dream life, I would like to point out that living in a foreign country is not a piece of cake, especially when you don't share the same native language with the locals. And even if you do, you will always be an alien, a visitor from another world, a parasite. No matter how long you have lived in your host country, how fluently you speak the native language and how well you are integrated the socioeconomic landscape, nothing can be taken for granted, and especially not honorary citizenship. Sic transit gloria mundi.

For some obvious reasons, I have always thought that I should learn Korean. First, it would have made my life easier, especially at work. But after numerous attempts to learn it on my own, the result is I don't speak Korean. After so many years spent in Seoul, I am still not able to interact with Koreans who can only speak Korean, and there are still many. I know I should have tried harder and I know it would have made my life a little easier but I never really felt that I could not survive without speaking Korean. But then again, if you have a weakness you'd rather transform it into a strength or just focus on your competitive advantages. As I knew it would take a long time before I am completely fluent, I just decided I should improve my English.

I was lucky enough to meet many Koreans who could speak English and/or French and in case of emergency, I could always phone a friend or ask the audience. Moreover, this allowed me to stay away from misunderstanding, nuances, or devilish details. In the end, I have compensated my language weakness by focusing on other communication skills.

As I am not completely stubborn, I have learnt how to read Hangeul (or Korean alphabet) which does help me since I generally don't understand what I read and the only thing I can write properly is my name. But why would I learn Korean (I know, such a childish question)? First, I had not planned to stay so long in Korea and secondly, this is not as if everybody in the world could speak Korean. Moreover, I may like challenges but I could not find the necessary time and energy to take Korean lessons. Finally, I may have one million excuses to justify my ignorance but the main one is the lack of motivation. 

Hangeul day, Oct.9, 2013 

Most people need a great motivation to learn a new language, and particularly when there is no real obligation to do so. One may think that willingness is a necessary condition but this is not enough. Motivation is actually more important, otherwise you will quickly decide you have better things to do. The same applies for those who want to quit smoking. I don't know any smoker who does not want to get rid of his/her smoking habits (there are some though) but when it comes to motivation, it seems easier to procrastinate than making a life changing decision.

So after 8 years of living in Korea without speaking Korean, the question is: should I stay or should I go? If I choose to stay, should I eventually decide to learn Korean or do I just consider it will take just a few years so that everybody can speak English?

I am too tired to answer those questions now. Over the last years, I have furiously embraced the Korean lifestyle while trying to protect myself against a total assimilation. I have tried very hard to follow the local rules and regulations, I have often questioned myself (and my mental health) and I sometimes accepted the unacceptable (at least according to my system of values, being close to sacrifice my basic human rights (such as vacations) on the altar of integration.

Being French did not help me as it has often been difficult to shut my mouth, but in the end, I became proud again of my cultural background ... the French 'art de vivre' (art of living), intellectualism, cheekiness, sensuality, elegance, derision, complexity, criticism, contradiction, perfectionism, self-indulgence, sophistication, ... all those 'je'ne-sais-quoi' that make French people so irritatingly attractive and hard to please.

In conclusion, I would say that living abroad may be either a privilege for many or a cross to bear for some, but in the end, it is always a good opportunity to put things in perspective. And when in Seoul, don't try to do as the Seoulites do.

Bonus

Peyo - Macaron original

If you think that a macaron should look like a hamburger sandwich, then just go revise your classics, or go and visit Peyo, a new macaron and coffee shop close to Ewha station in Seoul. Here, you will have a unique opportunity to taste the genuine macarons from French Basque Country.

First let me explain that Peyo is a first name. It is the equivalent of 'Peter' for the Basques.

As for macarons, you need to know that the original recipe essentially uses almond powder, eggs (white) and (little) sugar. It means that macarons are normally good for health and probably for the skin (if you don't add artificial flavors and colorants, and of course any sweet, buttery filling, like the sugar bombs that are now so popular). 

As for the history of macarons, it is very long so you'd better ask Mikaël, the owner of Peyo, directly. If he is not preparing his next batch, he will be very glad to explain to you the true nature and essence of macaron.

Mikaël is a French artisan and engineer. It means he does not compromise with quality. His hand-made macarons are not only cookies (oops, actually they are NOT cookies, please don't mention 'cookies' in front of him! still, I don't know what I should call them ...), but also little pieces of culinary art.

I actually think Peyo's macarons taste much better than Lad...rée macarons or any other bling-bling cookies that proliferate in so many pastry franchises in Seoul.

Moreover, Mikaël likes to experiment new flavors as much as I like to play his guinea pig and, I'd like to think, his crazy muse. So far, I have tried the 'original' (my favorite), yuja, lemon, grapefruit, green tea, hazelnut, ginger+choco, very berry, strawberry, cinammon, choco, blueberry, and even wasabi. Well, I must have forgotten some but it seems I have tasted everything. Those macarons are crunchy outside and soft inside, with a long finish in your mouth. I would recommend Champagne with Peyo macarons, though Earl Grey tea is also an interesting option, as well as a glass of milk or spicy glue wine.

Of course, Peyo offers great coffees or choco and some 'délires de l'artiste' (artistic frenzies), such as the caffe latte with grapefruit syrup. Believe it or not, it is really good.

Finally, I would say that eating a Peyo macaron is a statement. 

Mikaël, Peyo's owner 

Korea - Coping with K-Pop

Does K-Pop have any future? 

Korea Tourism Organization's K-Pop Hall of Fame (K-Star Gallery)

For those who may think that K-Pop is a new brand of cereals, let me clarify that K-Pop is actually the abbreviation of Korean Pop, or Korean popular music. To be more precise, K-Pop is a “made in Korea” version of pop music, though it may also be qualified as Korean branded popular music. 

K-Pop is one of the variations of Hallyu (or Korean wave), a cultural phenomenon that started in the 90s with the spreading of the Korean dramas, now renamed K-dramas, in Asia first, then in the Middle East and Latin America and reportedly "almost" everywhere in the world. Building on that success, the first boys / girls bands worth a mention started to show their baby faces in the mid-90s. However, the international recognition of K-Pop came very recently, through the spreading of the social network services (our little big brothers Facebook, YouTube, Twitter, etc.). 

Same as above picture

In December 2011, YouTube opened an official music channel especially for K-Pop (check it here), marking the first time a YouTube channel is dedicated to a country’s music and not a specific musical genre. K-Pop is described there as a “musical genre consisting of dance, electronic, electropop, hip hop, and R&B music originating in South Korea”. I understand that this decision may have been taken to satisfy the growing K-Pop fandom even if I find it a little bit unfair, as many other countries could legitimately claim the same treatment. If geographic indications were to be applied to the music industry, K-Pop would have to deal with several solid competitors, as long as they are willing to mobilize the same resources and show the same persuasiveness as Korea. 

Anyway, let’s not react too fast as K-Pop could be disappear as swiftly as it has invaded the global cultural landscape, since it mostly targets a young audience characterized by a tendency to get bored easily and a promptness to be lured by any novelty. But then again, K-Pop is like ketchup: kids and teenagers are addicted to it because it is bright, funny, colourful and sweet ... and it makes anything edible and less miserable. As they grow up, their tasting buds may be more selective ... or they may just keep addicted and convert their own kids. 

Now I must confess I am not a big fan of K-Pop, though it does mean I do not like it. Out of curiosity, I have spent a whole evening watching K-Pop videos on YouTube and I really found them entertaining if not soothing. But if I had to bring only one single kind of music on a desert island, K-Pop would not be my first choice. Otherwise, I would probably die of boredom. This may be a sign that I am no longer a teenager (not that I need any confirmation). 

Having said that, I can perfectly understand why K-Pop groups are so attractive since they are actually reflecting many positive traits of the South Korean society: discipline, diligence, team spirit, determination, harmony (or rather homogeneity), energy, respect for the elders and the hierarchy, straightforwardness, etc. And unlike many Western stars, K-Pop artists are usually well-behaved and multi-talented, not to mention the fact that they are supposed to stay away from drugs. Additionnally, their songs are not depressing or shocking. Conversely, members of K-Pop groups are often illustrating the fierceness of the Korean society and are not exempt from extreme working hours and rather low salaries, unfair contracts, brutal competition, bullying, depression, etc. as shown in BBC News’ article The dark side of South Korean Pop music. 

Another peculiarity of K-Pop is the beauty of the boys and girls band members, one of the key factors of their successes. As a resident of Seoul, I find it almost normal that nearly all young South-Korean aged from 18 to 30 years are pretty, skinny, well-dressed (overdressed) … and always trying to catch a glimpse of themselves in any reflecting surface. However, they tend to look all the same since the Korean beauty is getting less and less natural. Sometimes I feel like I am living in a giant Barbie factory … I have also noticed that many Koreans teenagers had nothing in common with their young stars, until their mothers decide to bring them to Apgujeong or Gangnam districts, where a nice doctor will make them acceptable. 

The fact that K-Pop stars have a real bond with their fans and that they have suffered to achieve success also contributes to their popularity, making them accessible role models. Yes, they are cultural creatures but they show us that we can all do better, in this world of crises and uncertainties. 

But what makes K-Pop music a genuine South Korean cultural product, outside the fact it starts with a K? 

In fact, anything starting with the letter K has great chances to be related to Hallyu these days, and not only kimchi. As written in the article All eyes turn to Korean culture in London of Korea.net (available online and offline), “To date, Korean culture has mostly garnered international recognition for its music (K-Pop music) and televisions dramas (K-dramas). To introduce and spread interest in diverse aspects of Korean culture and arts, the Korean Culture and Information Service (KOCIS) and KCCUK have organized programs under the categories of K-Arts, K-Music, K-Classics, K-Literature, K-Film, K-Fashion, K-Lecture, K-Food, and K-Culture.” Even the Korea lol (laughing out loud) is : kkk

First, most K-Pop songs are in Korean, sometimes with English and Konglish (Korean English) touches, though they may be translated in order to reach wider audiences. As a consequence a growing K-Pop fandom is willing to travel to Korea and/or to learn Korean in order to understand what their idols say, which should not be too difficult. Secondly, all K-Pop artists are Korean although they tend to (or they are requested to) do everything to look less Korean, mainly through heavy nose, eyes, lips, hips, hair etc. jobs. 

Though I am quite skeptical about the future of-Pop, I have to admit it has completely fulfilled its mission of raising South Korea’s global standing. As a cultural emanation of the nation branding strategy, K-Pop has undoubtedly contributed to the consolidation of the Korean cultural pride and identity, locally and internationally. Plus, K-Pop is a really lucrative business. According to Korea Herald's article Cultural exports draw $800 million in 2011), “The culture industry generated a total of 890 billion won ($793 million) from the Korean Wave or hallyu in 2011, the highest overseas profit since the central bank started collecting related data in 1980. The industry generated no revenue from selling cultural content abroad up until 1996.” 

Not surprisingly, South Korea takes K-Pop very seriously, not only as a profitable industry but also as a tool for cultural diplomacy. Though the music industry itself does generates a lot of profit, many jobs and revenues are generated through K-Pop-related tourism, as explained in CNNGo’s article Harnessing K-Pop for tourism, not to mention medical tourism when it comes to plastic surgery. 

Another factor contributing to the global spreading of K-Pop is the active role played by the South Korea government in promoting this  Hallyu sub-product, the President itself relying on K-Pop stars to bolster bilateral relations with other nations, such as Turkey (also read the article John Park named goodwill ambassador for poverty reduction.) 

So, the good thing is that South Koreans are increasingly taking ownership of their culture (preferably the modern one) while they may have displayed some shyness or even shame in the past, as far as their cultural heritage is concerned. The less good thing may be a potential K-Pop overdose for everybody: overexposure, overexploitation, overconfidence, overuse of the K-letter etc. 

In fact, my main concern is that both the K-Pop stars and their fans are getting old and while the Korean society is also ageing fast, it seems difficult to keep the wave sweeping if nobody takes over. This may be the reason why K-Pop managers are now recruiting abroad  I am also concerned by the diminution of interest for the Korean traditional culture, probably less accessible for the K-Pop public and also less “bankable”.  As the wise man says ... Culture is like jam: the less you have, the more you spread it. 

On a final note, the recent overhelming success of the K-Pop singer PSY, "Gangnam Style", shows us that K-Pop is not immune to "second degré" (some kind of French humour), which in my opinion can be considered as a sign of maturity.
Read this to know more about Psy's hidden message :
Gangnam Style, Dissected: The Subversive Message Within South Korea's Music Video Sensation

I have written this article as a submission to be part of the Team Florens at the Florens 2012 Cultural Environmental Heritage Week (Nov. 3-11, 2012), and I would Like to encourage all of you to do the same!

My purpose here was to bring a personal perspective on the themes "Economy through culture" and "Developping and promoting cultural identity through creative industries", trough this article about K-Pop. Please kindly note that I am not a K-Pop expert (and not an enemy either) so any comments and kind critics are mostly welcome. 

Cultural production is the fil rouge for Florens 2012, in addition to themes like identity, cultural heritage and competition. The Forum’s case-studies and lectio magistralis will provide ample opportunity to delve into research regarding these themes, showcasing a unified vision for cultural heritage that includes everything from landscape and historical archives to food and wine, craftsmanship, archeology, fashion, agriculture and design. Historical, social and artistic aspects will be connected, interpreted and revealed under the auspices of culture, while being indissolubly and bi-univocally linked to the economic/productive sector. 

To know more about the event check the link www.fondazioneflorens.it

Seoul Findings - April to June 2012

Is sustainable tourism an oxymoron?

Yes, and no. The definitions of tourism and sustainability being rather broad and widely misused, the combination of both should not be too much shocking. After all, if we are ready to allow “corporate social responsibility”, “politically correct”, “economic democracy”, ”green growth”, “shared values”, etc. so why not “sustainable tourism”?

As an umbrella concept, sustainable tourism covers a wide range of ideas and ideals, and does not really express any concrete situation. Now it just occurs to me that any word attached to “tourism” may create a pleonasm, an oxymoron or even a paradox, such as “pro-poor tourism”, “eco-tourism”, “green tourism”, “business tourism”, “responsible tourism”, “ethical tourism”, etc. And I also realize that we barely use the word “tourism” alone as if it were absolutely necessary to qualify it, probably because it is too generic and may be a little pejorative. Who wants to be called a tourist anyway? When I lived in France, I remember that being called a "tourist", especially at school, at workd and in the South of France (just an example), was synonymous with being careless, irrespectuous, out of purpose, unconscious, irresponsible, lazy, a little self-centered and full of prejudices ... depending on the context.

But then again, who really knows what tourism is?

I understand this is not the first time I ask this question but I won’t stop doing it as long as I won’t get a clear answer. How about, for example: “tourism is a temporary geographic relocation, involving a sleepover for one or several nights?” In that case, there should be no need to fuss about tourism, which should not be demonized or glorified. What may be a concern is the tendency of tourists to act differently when they are not in their home countries. And I should say, "differently" often means "weirdly" or "irresponsibly".

Some tourists may decide to travel because they want to find and define themselves while others just want to lose their minds or escape a world of limitations while reaching artificial paradises. We may consider the fact that many tourists travel with the perspective of being allowed to act carelessly. Some of them will even choose their destinations according to that prospect, explaining that they are actually encouraged to act irresponsibly, in destinations where everything is done to attract and please them whatever the price to pay (usually not by the tourists).

As a human activity, tourism is fundamentally not sustainable. Otherwise, it could not be called tourism. As an industry, an economic sector or a market, tourism can only be sustainable if both the demand and supply are sustainable.

And how about sustainability?

Between the United Nations Conference on Environment and Development (UNCED) in 1992, also known as Rio Earth Summit, and the Rio+20 United Conference on Sustainable Development in June 2012, the most significant progress achieved seems to be semantic. At least, many people have eventually heard about “sustainable development” even if very few of them (of us?) really understand what it is, what it means and how it can translates in everyday life. Quite unsurprisingly, the word “sustainable” has been trendy enough to be extensively tapped for branding, marketing or political purposes, more as a selling argument rather than a real statement. In that sense, I would say that Green is the Sustainable of the 21st Century. And while sustainable development has been accused of focusing to much on environment, green may be critized for its inability to integrate the social, cultural and economic dimensions. Except that we are now talking about green growth and we might hear about green sociocultural growth.

In the end, I would say sustainable development is a road map that requires a shift in consciousness. It is a long-term strategy, mostly based on common sense, maturity and individual responsibility. It is the process, and not the end, allowing us to change our future so that it becomes “The future we want”.

Still, when it comes to sustainability, there are still a lot of “may be”, “should be”, “could be“, “has the potential to be”, etc. and few “is” or “are” or even “must be”. What’s wrong with us? What do we fear? Doesn’t it seem irresponsible to always procrastinate? The more we fear, the more what we fear will happen. The more we ask for changes and improvements, the more they move away from us. What we need is to create the future now, and we do not have to wait to be grownups to do so.

So where do we stand with sustainable tourism?

Let’s be honest: tourism has impacts and so far, the economic contribution of tourism has not entirely compensated its environmental, cultural and social damages, as money cannot buy anything. Tourism takes a lot and does not give back enough. Tourists use resources and often spoil them, and the price they pay for it is still indecently low. So what have we done so far ?

Though most participants of international conferences are technically tourists, it took time for the global community to include tourism in high level debates. The World Tourism Organization "only" became a United Nations agency in 2003, one year after it has launched its ST-EP (Sustainable Tourism for Eliminating Poverty) initiative in 2002, towards the achievement of the UN Millennium Development Goals. During the first decade of the 21st Century, sustainable tourism has become more and more popular and it has actually created many jobs (and not only international specialists, advisers and consultants. And yes, I am one of them). Several UN agencies now have their own sustainable tourism departments, or initiatives, or foundation, etc. a consequence of the multi-sectoral dimension of tourism. The creation of UN Women does not mean that other agencies are not allowed to talk about women.

What upsets me a little is this growing cult of sustainable tourism as a solution to all problems of our planet: poverty, unemployment, war, climate change, peace, etc. For some people, it seems it has become some kind of religion, with many gurus and followers yet very few practitioners. Instead of hiding behind concepts and professions of faith, let’s just act now so that tourism becomes a meaningful development option, for each individual.

Where does the truth lie?

I don't know what happened to me recently (ok, I turned 43 last week), but I have just realized how lies have become an important part of our lives. Why do people lie anyway? That is a good question but I will not try to answer it now.

Tourism may also be viewed as an illusion factory, producing, advertising and selling utopias, shams, tales or not-so-white lies. If tourism operators and travel agencies were telling the complete truth to their customers, they would surely have to close their business. Tourists do not always want to hear or see the truth.  We can also imagine that tourism will eventually disappear when dreams become as ugly as reality and when it becomes more “painful” to travel than to stay home. This will surely happen if we do not open our eyes.

These days, we can read a lot about storytelling as a core element of destination branding strategies. Many tourism marketers are very excited about this reinvented technique and some even consider it as an art (read the article Tourism is all about storytelling). For a few enlightened marketers, storytelling may add value to the tourism offering but for many of their colleagues, the main purpose is basically to fool people. Otherwise, why would some tourist companies pay for good comments and feedback about their products? Why would they be honest and sincere anyway, while most tourists do not want to hear the truth? Yes, tourism is a matter of perceptions but we have to admit that there is a huge difference between interpreting and misleading.

While big lies and scams can ruin the best destination branding and sustainable tourism strategies, white lies and other legends may be a nice way to meet the needs of tourist for extraordinary experiences, as in: Lies, damn lies and tourists, Lying to Tourists for Fun and Profit and 20 Lies New Yorkers Tell Tourists.

That is the magic of tourism. 

Here is my personal list of small lies that could told to tourists in Seoul 

• The drivers of orange taxis (international taxis aka foreigners' taxis) all speak English. 
• “Good Restaurant” billboards actually designate good restaurants. 
• The subway system in Seoul in the most practical in the world. 
• Korean diet is healthy and can make you lose weight. 
• The alcohol content of soju is very low. 
• Seoul is a cosmopolitan, foreigner-friendly city. 
• Products made in Korea are the best in the world. 
• There are no beggars in Seoul. 
• There are four seasons in Korea. 
• All Korean women like to be called “ajumas” as a sign of respect. 
• Koreans do not like sweet food.

Otherwise, what happened to me between April and June (outside working like a donkey)? I just would like to mention that from June to September (July and August being the hottest months), government and big building offices in Seoul have been been required to keep their indoor temperatures at 28 C or above.

As mentioned in JoongAng Daily's article, workers peel off layers as firms eye lower energy bills, yet life is much easier for the tourists visiting Seoul since the coolest places in Seoul are for them: coffee shops and department stores. Those places are just obliged to keep their doors shut while air conditioners are on (unlike in Singapour where the shop owners like to share their cold ambiance with people walking on the street).

Now I am just wondering why workers have to endure crazy hot temperatures (even in shorts and sandals) while tourists deserve nice chilly atmospheres. Is it because employees = costs whereas tourists = revenues?

I will therefore dedicate the pictures below to the fight against office warming.

Yes, that man is too hot and he had the bad idea of drinking on the top of it (just guessing)

Dogani Tang Trail : a new restaurant at Eujiro Il-ga City Hall
Don't know dogani ? Read the post : Dogani monster ...

South Korea's largest news agency Yonhap's strike over alleged pro-government bias: it lasted over three months and involved camping in front of Yonhap offices.  

An example of jobs created through tourism : the flourishing natural lemonade business in Myeong-dong shopping district in Seoul. It would be even better without adding chemical soda in it. Now you can fin dit wherever you go and I must say that lemon diet is good good for health and for business.

Competition and diversifcation : natural orangeade business is also flourishing in Myeong-dong, with oranges coming from California (would be better if they came from Jeju-do island)

Squid snacks : smelly yet healthy, same interest as chewing-gum and much better for the environment (if you close your mouth)

Natural clay masks in Myeong-dong, which is also a cosmetics heaven: with lemon and giseng but not with squid

Entrance of Myeong-dong shopping eating snacking lemoning district

Activist cookie, made in Dokdo Island.

Luxury Dogani-tang at Lotte Department Store : same price but heavy air con (sorry I could not resist)

Why I like dogani-tang

Korea promoting water for Africa

Seoul Findings - Jan. to March 2012 : Inspiring Korea vs. Incredible India

Is tourism a worthwhile adventure? 

Back from a business trip to India, I have mixed feelings about the impact of development on tourism. That's a fact, things have been getting easier for travelers around the world. Quality, hospitality, accessibility, reliability, punctuality, integrity, connectivity, efficiency, sustainability, interactivity and even authenticity … are more and more accepted as universal values by the tourism industry. On the other hand, tourists are getting increasingly demanding and are easily getting upset about tiny things they would not have noticed a few decades or even years ago. 

Ten years ago, travelling to India has been quite challenging for me. I have not experienced the Indian Syndrome, this legendary cultural shock that drives so many visitors crazy but I must say I was a little close to exasperation and nausea after a couple of months spent in Calcutta and Bhubaneswar, Orissa. 

India, 10 years ago ... 

I cannot not really explain why … May be it was the constant fear of being sick (though nothing happened, in spite of overindulging in local food, working in slums and not-so-sanitary landfills and following the routes of waste collection trucks on a daily basis), the regular encounters with depravation, the permanent feeling of being an outcast or a walking piggy bank, the enigmatic stares, that fascinated me as much as they disturbed me. I have never felt in real danger in India yet I had a constant sensation of being uncomfortable and inconvenient. All my senses seemed amplified, except my sense of familiarity and security. Street noises, foul and food smells, colorful saris, spice markets, rickshaws, billboards and temples; wetness, stickiness and dustiness of the atmosphere, profusion of fat, sugar and flavors maddening and addicting your taste buds … cows everywhere in the streets, acting as princesses in a country where Mac Donald’s where beef burgers are banned. 

During this first mission in India, communication fences have been a little hard to jump over. Apart from the hotel staff and a couple of local counterparts, I have barely had the opportunity to interact with other Indians and when I did, speaking English did not seem the right option though it was the only one for me. Body language did not help a lot since all my questions were answered by the same head wobbling, meaning either ‘yes’, ‘no’, ‘may be’, ‘I see’ or ‘I am confused’. The adventure was however worthwhile to live just because it was an adventure. Physical and cultural distances were difficult to cover but every time I reached a goal or just got what I had expected, I considered it as a small victory over adversity. At that time, I had no cell phone, no Internet and not even a laptop. The only camera I had was disposable and just offered me limited options to capture unforgettable moments. I remember having spent so many boring hours waiting for my flight back to Paris at the airport. Nothing to do at all but eating greasy dry samosas. New Delhi airport was as welcoming and modern as a prison. Still, my memories are as vivid and colorful as the little adventure I lived. 

I don’t have any awful memory of that trip but I clearly remember how my paranoid travel mate (a colleague by the way) abundantly shared his anxiety with me and drove me more suspicious than I should have been. I mean, what is the point of restricting your diet to coke (I mean Coca Cola) and toasts when you are in India?  And come on, should I really rinse my toothbrush with mineral water? Sure, drinking water is still an issue and Westerners cannot trust their guts when it comes to swallow water from any usually suspect ed source. As for tourist attractions, I could visit some palaces and temples, see elephants, monkeys and cows, and I also witnessed a riverside funeral ceremony involving the cremation of several bodies. The culminating part of that trip was a dinner at some Indian friends’ who invited me to celebrate the end of Ramadan with them. The thing is … I was not prepared to eat alone while they were admiring my ability to grab a delicious yet slippery Biryani rice without using any cutlery but the wrong hand … I also should mention that it had been more dangerous to eat in my room than outside since the employee in charge of room service found it was a good idea to sit on my bed, telling me he wanted to know more about me. I found it very funny at that time. 

Ten years later, I came back to India with the kind of apprehension only ageing people have. I even contracted a travel insurance for the first time in my life. In the end, I just realized I should have chosen an insurance against silliness, mine of course.

However, my experience of India has been less brutal but not less enjoyable this time. My destination was Gujarat and the purpose of my mission was to establish libraries in local public schools. With major businesses and double digit growth rates, Gujarat is one of the most prosperous states in India and the place to go if you want to invest in textiles, engineering, chemicals, petrochemicals, drugs and pharmaceuticals, etc. Not my case. However, many Gujaratis are still living below the poverty line. Moreover, all the schools I have visited had a computer lab but they usually had no library and/or no books.

Symbols of Gujarat hospitality

I was based in Dahej, a big industrial area offering limited opportunities for tourism if you are not a big fan of industrial tourism. Anyway, Vadodara and its charming palaces was not that far: 2 hours drive on a very  decent road. Mosquitoes and cows were still there but I have decided we could live peacefully together, at least for the cows. 

Survival kit ... 

This time, I had a local cell phone, a Korean cell phone, a laptop, a Wifi connection. This created new constraints such as: bringing 3 chargers (for the Indian cell phone, the Korean cell phone and the digital camera) and one heavy cable, writing daily reports, finding a power socket to put my mosquito repellent plug, choosing between noisy fan and chilly air con, trying to explain that when I do not want my towel to be washed I throw it on the floor, trying to understand why there are 10 power switches in my room , etc. A good thing is that I have seriously improved my English as Foreign language skills which allows me to master its different interpretations and accentuations around the world, particularly in countries where you may get a beer when you ask for the bill. Working with Indian counterparts has also been spiritually and professionally rewarding and though some of them were merciless businessmen, I have learnt a lot from them about India as a promising BRIC country. 

Ups, I did it again ... 

This time, my travel companion was more an alter ago or a soul mate than just a simple colleague. We both had the same interest for cross cultural exchanges and discoveries, food exploration and picture taking, endless questions to the waiters and silly jokes about (exploding or laughing) sacred cows. Since he is Korean and I am French, English is obviously not our native language and not our cup of chai tea either. For example, he told me one day that contrarily to all his friends who had been to India, he had no diary. I commented that I also wanted to start a diary because it helped me release my stress but I found it quite constraining and I had no time for it. After 15 mn of blablabla about my future projects of diary, my colleague kindly specified to me that he was actually talking about diarrhea.

I really would like to thank him for having made this epic trip a great memory. 

Market in Dahej 

Dahej ... its trucks and its dust

Dahej too.

Despite of its tremendous growth, India has kept some kind of authenticity and charm, at least in the countryside. Women are still wearing beautiful saris, streets are still fragranced with spices and other smells that are more  rickshaws are more present than ever and cows, well, are still sacred and temples are still being built. In short, India is still incredible. 

The Lukshmi Vilas Palace, Vadodara (former Baroda), Gujarat

At Mandap, Express hotel, best Gujarati restaurant in Vadodara

Punjabi restaurant in Dediapada, Narmada district

My farewell gift ... 

Tourism is a matter of perceptions, circumstances and illusions. Our best adventures are created by our minds ... mine was well disposed.

The palace of the nuts, Bharuch

The glorious food of the (in)famous Shalimar hotel in Bharuch

Mango Lassi with Dosa pancake

Spiritual enlightenment with my travel guide Swami Vivekananda

Freshly pressed sugar cane juice,  just before flying back to Korea  ... adventure ! 

What about Seoul findings from January to March 2012? 

From January to March, I spent a lot of time at work, abroad, on the road, in the plane and in the immigration offices.  As a result, I have not a lot of Seoul findings to report.

What can I say? Seoul is becoming a very practical and welcoming city. Too many coffee shops and shopping opportunities for me but I will survive. 

Traditional wedding lunch menu, Feb. 2012

While many Indians are vegetarians, Koreans love their meat and especially beef. The Korean one of course, called Hanu. They also like pork, often coming from France. Both countries like hot, spicy, colorful food. Hence high risks of stomach ache and heavy consumption of antiacid medication.

I have recently discovered the nearly miraculous and versatile properties of baking soda as a very efficient remedy against acidosis, and so many other disorders. I have been taking very small amount of baking soda every day for a few weeks and I can tell you that my body likes it. Taste is quite too salty for me but I can bear it. Baking soda is really cheap and can be found in all grocery shops. 

Tabom, one of the many Brazilian restaurants of Itaewon, carnivorgy places.  

Asiana Airlines decided to rename its Economy Class, now called Travel class. Does it mean that travelling in first or business class is not travelling? 

The bus and subways fare have recently increased in Seoul yet they remain quite affordable. I still think that bus drivers should be aware than they are not driving a racecar but a public transport vehicle full of pregnant women, frail ajumas (oxymoron) and people like me who do not appreciate to be treated as flipper balls. 

Now foreigners are aware that they may be fined if they do not pay the fare

I have just discovered that Chai Tea Latte was becoming very trendy in Korea. I would not have noticed if I had not become addicted to this delicious beverage in India. Here in Seoul, this will cost you a fortune, as any trendy stuff. Shame ...

Some S(e)oul inspiration 

• Free will is not a luxury but a right to exercise.
• People do not really give a job, they trade it. 
• Corruption is an insult.  
• Having no limits is a great source of anxiety, hence the exhilarating then depressing effect of power. 
• Creative people are visionaries. 
• K-Pop is the Korean, modern version of  'bread and circuses'
• Saying ‘No’ is a safe answer on the long run. 
• In a competing world, your best allies are those who are cruelly pointing out your flaws and weaknesses.